14 Essential Things to Know Before Hitting the Road
1. Special Permit Required to Drive in Sri Lanka
Renting a car in Sri Lanka can be a cumbersome process due to the obligatory permit. Having a valid driver’s license or an international driving permit isn’t sufficient. Your non-Sri Lankan license must be “verified” in Sri Lanka before you can drive legally. You have two options:
- Obtain a temporary driving permit from the Department of Motor Traffic
- Get your International Driving Permit endorsed by the Automobile Association of Sri Lanka (AA)
In our case, we chose the first option.
How to Obtain a Temporary Driving Permit in Sri Lanka
To obtain a temporary driving permit, your driving license must be in English. If it isn’t, you’ll need a certified translation. Visit the Department of Motor Traffic, ideally early in the day, to avoid the crowds. The process usually takes about an hour, and the staff is helpful. Here’s what you’ll need:
- Your passport (plus one hard copy)
- A hard copy of your Sri Lankan visa
- Your driving license (plus one hard copy)
- 1000 Rupees (around US$ 5)
Once you have your temporary driving permit, you can pick up a rental car from any agency.
2. Left-Side Driving in Sri Lanka
Sri Lanka is among the 76 countries that drive on the left side of the road. If you’re not accustomed to this, it can initially be a bit stressful. Additionally, when renting a car in Sri Lanka, the steering wheel will be on the right side, which requires some adjustment.
3. Traffic in Colombo: Intense but Manageable
Traffic in the capital city, Colombo, is notorious for its chaos. However, it’s not as nightmarish as in other Asian cities like Jakarta or Mumbai. If you’re a cautious driver, I would advise avoiding Colombo, especially when you’ve just arrived. Many car rental agencies have offices in the less congested town of Negombo or offer airport drop-off options. This allows you to get comfortable with Sri Lankan traffic under more relaxed circumstances.
Outside of Colombo, traffic is generally not congested, with empty roads often stretching before you. However, be prepared for occasional encounters with daring drivers and bewildering situations.
4. Excellent Road Conditions Await
The roads in Sri Lanka are remarkably well-maintained, much to our pleasant surprise. In fact, many roads are in better condition than those I’ve encountered in California. Major roads are well-paved with clear markings.
One drawback, though, is that some two-way roads are too narrow for two cars to pass each other comfortably. However, local drivers seem unfazed and often overtake without much regard, leaving you to maneuver your way around potential collisions.
5. Toll Roads: Paying for Convenience
Since 2011, Sri Lanka has implemented tolls for its highways, also known as expressways. These roads are excellent: well-maintained and often empty. Traveling at speeds of 80-110 km/hour is not uncommon. Toll booths are located at the entrances and exits of expressways, where you can pay in cash. The toll fees are reasonable, ranging from 200 to 300 Rupees (around US$ 1 to US$ 1.50) for a 20 to 30-minute drive.
Expressways are marked as E-roads on Google Maps, making navigation simple.
6. Honking: Not Always an Irritation
Getting accustomed to the frequent honking was an adjustment for us. In Sri Lanka, honking is not necessarily a sign of wrongdoing. It’s often used to alert others of your presence, such as when overtaking or being overtaken by a tuk-tuk or another vehicle. Over time, we realized the value of this habit in navigating the unpredictable Sri Lankan traffic.
7. Turn Signals and Brake Lights: Use with Caution
Sharing the roads with various vehicles moving at different speeds requires attentiveness to turn signals and brake lights. While most vehicles use their turn signals to indicate turns and overtakes, they may neglect to use them when pulling over unexpectedly. Brake lights, unfortunately, may be non-functional, especially on buses and vans, which can lead to near-misses.
8. Buses: Frequent Stops, Frequent Surprises
Buses in Sri Lanka stop frequently, often disregarding designated bus stops. Be prepared for sudden halts. Additionally, be cautious when it comes to buses, as many have malfunctioning brake lights and may not signal their intentions adequately. Keep a watchful eye on them to avoid any mishaps.
9. Overtaking: A Norm Rather Than an Occasional Maneuver
Due to the diverse speeds at which vehicles travel, overtaking occurs frequently on Sri Lankan roads. If someone feels you’re driving too slowly, they won’t wait for an optimal opportunity to pass you. Instead, they will attempt to overtake immediately, utilizing any available space. Buses, in particular, tend to overtake swiftly, often followed by abrupt stops to pick up or drop off passengers.
Although it may seem chaotic at first, you’ll acclimate to this driving style surprisingly quickly. However, I advise against emulating the risky overtaking habits of some Sri Lankan drivers. Safety should always be a priority.
10. Watch Out for Speed Limit Signs
While Sri Lanka does have speed limits, the signage can be sparse. Exceptions aside, most drivers tend to go at their own pace, which is generally not very fast. Initially, it’s advisable to drive at a speed you feel comfortable with, even if it’s below the limit. As you familiarize yourself with Sri Lankan traffic, you can gradually adjust your speed while keeping an eye out for speed limit signs.
11. Police Presence: Friendly and Helpful
During our journey, we were stopped by the police on two occasions. Once, an officer with a radar gun caught us speeding. However, he found humor in two tourists navigating Sri Lankan roads. After a good laugh and some casual conversation about the sights we’d seen, he let us go without issuing a ticket.
On another occasion, we were stopped randomly for a standard check. The officer, taken aback by foreigners driving, decided to forego the usual document inspection and engaged us in a friendly chat about Sri Lanka.
The police in Sri Lanka are generally amicable and helpful. They conduct routine checks along the roads, often directing traffic. Many smile warmly upon seeing foreign drivers.
12. Navigating with Google Maps
For the most part, Google Maps proved reliable during our journey. Nearly every road, regardless of its size, is included in their database. However, be aware that Google Maps doesn’t indicate road conditions, such as sandiness or narrowness. Exercise caution when planning routes in remote areas.
13. Beware of Animals and Pedestrians
Animals, such as dogs, cows, and goats, seem oblivious to the danger that cars pose. Some pedestrians share this lack of concern for their safety. Exercise caution and keep an eye out for them while driving. An extra measure of vigilance is necessary, particularly when encountering Sri Lankan dogs crossing the road or resting nonchalantly in the middle of it.
14. Road Accessibility: Confirm Before Booking
If you plan to explore more remote areas in Sri Lanka, ensure your accommodation is reachable by car. Although the country boasts well-maintained roads, off-the-beaten-track locations may feature long, pothole-riddled dirt roads. While we successfully navigated such roads, this may not be the case during rainy periods or if road conditions worsen.
To avoid potential difficulties, inquire with property owners about accessibility when booking. Most tourists don’t drive in Sri Lanka, so road conditions may not be disclosed upfront. For trickier-to-reach destinations, consider using tuk-tuks or 4-wheel drive vehicles.
Why Choose to Drive in Sri Lanka?
Driving in Sri Lanka offers unparalleled freedom and exploration opportunities. You can chart your own course, visiting remote and lesser-known parts of the country at your leisure. The convenience of having your own car significantly enhances your travel experience, sparing you the inconvenience of lugging your luggage to bus or train stations.
Furthermore, driving allowed us to cover more ground and see a greater portion of Sri Lanka in just 30 days, compared to relying solely on public transport.
Do I Recommend Driving in Sri Lanka?
This question isn’t easily answered. As a seasoned traveler, I have encountered far more chaotic traffic situations than what Sri Lanka has to offer. However, during the initial days of our trip, I, too, experienced multiple heart-stopping moments and silently prepared myself for a few minor accidents.
Over time, we adapted to Sri Lankan traffic and the driving habits of locals. Once outside Colombo, traffic congestion is minimal, roads are in good condition, and drivers generally adhere to reasonable speeds, reducing the risk of severe accidents.
Therefore, my answer is a qualified “yes.” If you value the freedom to explore at your own pace and enjoy the comfort of having a car, I recommend driving in Sri Lanka. However, it’s important to note that public transport in Sri Lanka is reliable and affordable. Trains and buses reach major destinations, and hiring a car with a driver for the day can cover the few places that are harder to access.
If you decide to rent a car in Sri Lanka, opting for a smaller vehicle is advisable, as narrow roads can make passing other vehicles challenging. Despite any concerns we had about our small car’s engine power, it handled the steeper inland hills with ease.
Lastly, even if you choose to rent a car, consider using tuk-tuks for local exploration, especially in congested city centers or narrow beach towns. Park your car at your accommodation and enjoy the convenience of exploring on foot or by tuk-tuk.
Self-Driving vs Renting a Car with a Driver
The primary distinction between self-driving and hiring a car with a driver is cost. Most tourists in Sri Lanka opt for a car with a driver for day trips to conveniently visit multiple attractions or reach more remote locations.
Personally, I’ve always felt a bit uncomfortable being chauffeured around, perhaps due to my Dutch heritage and the historical association with Sri Lanka. However, drivers who speak English provide valuable insights and serve as knowledgeable guides. Renting a car with a driver is undeniably less stressful than driving yourself.
Thus, if you have the budget and don’t mind being driven, renting a car with a driver is the most comfortable option for exploring Sri Lanka.
Self-Driving vs Public Transport
As previously mentioned, public transport in Sri Lanka is reliable. However, it’s less convenient compared to driving. Public transport requires meticulous planning, ensuring you catch the right trains or buses at specific times and stops.
Trains in Sri Lanka tend to be slow, with limited schedules and the possibility of sold-out tickets. Buses can be crowded, forcing you to stand for long periods. Nevertheless, public transport offers a unique cultural experience, providing insights into local life. As we concluded our road trip, we realized how much we missed these interactions, as we were more isolated in our own comfortable car.
Additionally, public transport is more environmentally friendly, assuming you limit your use of polluting tuk-tuks for short distances from train or bus stations to your desired destinations.
Although public transport can take you to most places, driving allowed us to cover more ground efficiently. This isn’t because public transport is insufficient, but rather due to the additional time and planning associated with relying solely on it. Furthermore, having a car enabled us to spontaneously stop at appealing sights along the way.
Cost of Renting a Car and Driving in Sri Lanka
We paid approximately $15 per day for our small rental car by opting for a monthly rental plan. If you rent a car for a shorter period, you can expect to pay a higher daily rate. Gasoline is inexpensive in Sri Lanka, with our 30-day trip costing us just under $100. We used toll roads occasionally, which are highly recommended, and the only additional expense was the Sri Lankan driving permit.
Tip: Use Rentalcars.com to book your rental car in Sri Lanka.
Final Tip for Driving in Sri Lanka
Before embarking on your Sri Lankan adventure, ensure you have a working phone with a local SIM card and the contact details of your car rental agency. In case of any issues, you can contact them for assistance.
Enjoy your journey through Sri Lanka, and if you choose to drive, drive safely!
Also Read:
- 1 Month in Sri Lanka: Places to Visit & Places Not to Visit
- Tips for Driving Abroad for the First Time
- Interview With An Expat About Colombo, Sri Lanka
- Where to Stay in Bentota, Sri Lanka – Review of Centara Ceysands Resort & Spa
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